As you face the cliff, this route is towards the left end. Keep walking left until you see a non-generic crack with a small A-shaped roof almost half way up the line. You won't miss it - it's striking. This crack starts wide, goes to fist-large hands in a flaring slot, hits the small roof and then leads to less than favorable sizes until you reach the anchor ledge. The business above the roof is mainly a steep section with thin hands to rattly fingers until you are just about at the ledge. This climb is nice because it varies in size and it actually has a few nice face hold on it. It's not a bad choice for the beginning 11- Creek leader.
Protection
This route has a nice fixed anchor at a small ledge roughly 90 feet off the deck. You can belay from up here if someone is seconding the route. For gear, bring a set of cams from #1 to #5 Friends. Doubles are only needed for 1.75, 2 and possibly the 2.5 and 1.5 Friends (bring triples if you're worried). There are also a couple opportunities for large bomber stoppers.
I have both lead and followed this route and did not think it necessary to have a wide cam to protect it. 1.5-2.5" cams were the crux pro, as the upper section is thin hands. Fun route.
The larger cam can be placed lower on the climb for added comfort. Look at the bottom and see if you want to protect the lower section. If not, then don't bring anything larger than a 3.5 Friend (1 will do).
This is a great route to climb but lots of the rock is shitty. There is a way to climb it that doesn't involve touching the large block that sounds real nice and solid (chimney to the face hold & span the block.) If you look at the climb you'll notice the slot under the roof is going to get larger when the roof falls out. After the roof/block there is more not solid rock leading to a section of hollow splitter! Great variety though.
I would be solid on this one, there are many other low 11's to take a ride on.
Tony and Ben are both right (just like an after school special). The big cam isn't needed, but it sure adds to the comfort. I will say that if you do opt for the biggun, put a long runner on it.
Varied climbing with a thin hands finish. I highly recommend this one.
By Tavis Ricksecker From: flagstaff, az Nov 26, 2007 rating: 5.11-
I used only 1 #3 camalot on this one. I probably used one #2, many (six or more) #1's, several (3?) #.75's, one #.5, and a yellow TCU for the roof, plus at least 3 slings to reduce rope drad. This is really a great route! My favorite at the Creek so far, and definately my proudest onsight. Exposed, techinical, difficult without being overly pumpy. Oh yeah, and I yarded on all the 'loose' blocks and nothing bad happened. :)
One of my favorite lines at the Creek...varied and 5.fun. Excellent pitch.
A #5 C4 protects the top of the wider section. A couple climbers said pro in this section wasn't needed. It isn't needed. No pro is needed, but if you don't want to take a 20 foot fall, you might wanna place it.
Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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